The least traveled island
Touring Yakushima, Kagoshima, Kumamoto and Nagasaki: Four fascinating areas of southern Japan
From the moss-covered primeval forests of Yakushima to the volcanic landscapes of Unzen, experience the power of the earth on this comprehensive route. Seamlessly use planes, trains, and ferries to access the best scenery in Kyushu, which has been shaped by powerful natural forces since ancient times.
1.Trekking through moss-covered forests / Yakushima
2.Relaxing kayak experience in clear streams / Yakushima
3.Visit an early morning market / Kagoshima City Fish Market
© 1997 Hayao MiyazakiStudio Ghibli, ND
My first day on Yakushima was spent exploring this renowned forest filled with moss and captivating nature otherwise known as Shiratani Unsuikyo. I trekked through huge expanses of moss and massive Yakusugi cedar trees, which inspired the Studio Ghibli film “Princess Mononoke,” marveling at the vibrant greens and fresh smells of nature. Once you hike through this stunning area, you will arrive at Taikoiwa, which affords some spectacular views of Miyanoura-dake, one of the 100 most famous mountains in the country, in addition to other peaks which are said to form the metaphorical backbone of the island itself.
© K．P．V．B
The views are worth the journey alone and when it rains on the island, the forest twinkles and shines and creates a spiritual and unearthly atmosphere. When you arrive at Taikoiwa, you will be able to relax and take in the unparalleled views. The trek is approximately 5 kilometers in its entirety and takes around 7 to 8 hours.
Although it can be enjoyed no matter the weather, visitors and hikers have to be mindful when it rains heavily, as the water can rise to dangerously high levels. If you want to enjoy the natural beauty of Yakushima safely, we recommend a guided tour. On this island, you can be sure to find a trekking tour that suits your needs, such as a tour with an English-speaking guide and pick-up service.
After the hike, I headed towards my hotel for the evening, the delightful Hotel Yakushima Ocean & Forest, which serves as the ideal base for trekking in the area which also has beautiful views of the sea surrounding Yakushima. Only a short walk from Miyanoura Port, the hotel is conveniently located near some supermarkets and restaurants where I stocked up on some supplies. For outdoor enthusiasts, the hotel also rents climbing equipment, which came in handy for some visitors who arrived at the same time as myself.
©THE HOTEL YAKUSHIMA OCEAN ＆ FOREST
©THE HOTEL YAKUSHIMA OCEAN ＆ FOREST
Unsurprisingly, Hotel Yakushima Ocean & Forest has a wide array of amenities for guests to use including a delightful local mineral water named Jomon Water which I happily drank to quench my thirst after a long day trekking through the forest. Before dinner, I decided to relax and take in the breathtaking views of the sky and sea from my bedroom window. For evening meals the hotel offers kaiseki cuisine which includes delicious local seafood and mountain-sourced delicacies which I enjoyed immensely.
©THE HOTEL YAKUSHIMA OCEAN ＆ FOREST
After dinner and prior to a well-deserved sleep, I sampled the hotel’s sauna which relieved the aches and pains from a day of trekking.
In the morning, it was a real pleasure to try the Japanese-Western-style buffet which offered more than 30 dishes — a real bonus that set me up perfectly for the day ahead. After my hearty breakfast I joined a fantastic and very leisurely canoeing tour on the Anbou River, the largest river on Yakushima.
I’m a beginner canoeist but this was no problem, as the guides and other tour members were on hand to give tips and helpful advice. It was also, it has to be said, a welcome change of pace after trekking through the mountains the day before. I decided to give myself to the ebb and flow of the river, and at one point we landed on a sandbar and had a very tasty coffee which we prepared ourselves. It’s worth noting that included in the very reasonable fee are insurance, tea service, canoes, paddles and all the necessary equipment you require for a few hours on the river. You should also bring a change of clothing, a towel and something to drink to stay hydrated during the hotter months.
After that, it was time for me to pack my bags and travel to Kagoshima famed for its beautiful and active volcano Sakurajima and top-notch shochu (much-loved alcoholic drink). My choice of transport was a boat named Toppy, a high-speed hydrofoil boat that connects Yakushima with Kagoshima City. Used by tourists and islanders alike, Toppy and its boat sibling Rocket each travel seven times a day (totalling 14 round trips). The boat journey took two hours and was a refreshing and exciting mode of transport, becoming an unforgettable experience.
After arriving in Kagoshima City, I headed to dinner, where I had a delicious meal of mouth-watering Kurobuta pork shabu shabu paired with locally crafted shochu.
Photo credit: Todd Fong
Known for its superb seafood, it may come as little surprise that my first morning in Kagoshima involved a tour of the Kagoshima Fish Market. Although visitors are only able to enter the facility with an official tour group, they are allowed to get up close and personal with the action, witnessing the auctions, shipping, and receiving, in addition to observing the preparation of the market's fresh seafood.
The tour takes about an hour, with an English guide and a local fish market guide, who also acts as a safety officer, guiding the group (up to six people) and making sure visitors don't stray into dangerous situations accidentally. Turret trucks and forklifts rush around us, moving products from unloading bays to preparation and shipping areas. I watched intently as fishmongers wield huge, sharp knives as they prepare the various catches, separating fish heads from fish bodies and cutting flesh from bone.
Photo credit: Todd Fong
Fishermen who deliver their catch to the Kagoshima Fish Market cover a huge swath of ocean, making the sheer variety of seafood available at this market uncountable, illustrated by the singularities and rare species of fish and seafood of unusually large size that I observed while looking carefully at the various catches, sorted by type and size.
I found that workers at the market were often as curious about me as I was about them. That said, the Kagoshima Fish Market workers were always friendly and talkative, offering a morning greeting and then some. And although it is not included in the tour, a visit to the early opening restaurants situated just next door serving fresh seafood sourced from the market was the ideal way to conclude my tour.
Next on my itinerary was a peek at the magnificent villa of the Shimadzu family that was built in 1658 by Mitsuhisa, the 19th generation head of the clan. It’s a large-scale garden with the magnificent Sakurajima, a picture perfect volcano, and Kinko Bay in the background. It was said to be a particular favorite of Nariakira, the 28th generation chief, and attracted many other notable visitors including Princess Atsuhime. The garden, which covers an impressive amount of ground, is filled with seasonal flowers.
The Iso area where Senganen Garden is located was registered as a World Heritage Site in 2015 and labeled a “Revolutionary Industrial Heritage Site of Meiji Japan.” Visitors can also feel and experience the story of the people of Satsuma who promoted the modernization of Japan. Lastly, I ventured into The Shoko Shuseikan Museum, where I learned about the 800-year history of the Shimadzu family, and the Satsuma Faceting Factory, which is open for tours and is located next to the park. It’s also a convenient resting place!
After that step back in time in Kagoshima, I rode the super-speedy and immaculately clean Kyushu Shinkansen to Kumamoto to inspect its gorgeous castle which is also known as one of the three most famous castles in Japan. Also referred to as the Ginnan Castle, ginnan referring to the fruit of ginkgo trees, it was built by the renowned general Kato Kiyomasa over a period of about seven years from 1599. The castle is a huge structure with a perimeter of 5.3 km. In 1877, the castle was besieged for more than 50 days during the Southwest Japan War. Unfortunately, prior to the war, the castle tower and Honmaru Goten were destroyed by a fire. The castle tower in its present form was rebuilt in 1960 and was severely damaged by the devastating Kumamoto earthquake of 2016. Restorations of the castle tower and interiors were completed five years later, although the restorations of other buildings and the stone walls is ongoing. However, visitors can view the “restoration for show,” and see the rostoration process up close.
© 2013 Kumamoto City
In spring, about 800 cherry trees of three varieties yamazakura, higozakura, and someiyoshino can be enjoyed in full bloom.
We move, then, to Unzen by car ferry that departs from Kumamoto Port to Shimabara Port located in Shimabara Peninsula which plays host to Unzen Jigoku and takes approximately 30 minutes.
I started my time here at the visitor center, where guests can learn about the overall history of the area. I met two of the staff, and they happily showed me around, giving me more of a local perspective on the area. They also gave a history of the hot springs and the various activities you can see and do here. Typically, these tours are led by a nature guide, who will give you a more in-depth explanation of the different kinds of flora and fauna that are in this hot spring region. I also met with the charming Mr. Ichiki, the owner of Guest House Tsudoi. In addition to being a mountain climbing guide, he has also served as a guide to ‘hell’ and the curious history of Unzen.
You can also pick up one of the free maps at the visitor center and set out on your course, like climbing the mountain ( I am told morning hikes to see the sunrise are popular) or take advantage of Unzen's recently launched cycling program, which offers rentable electric bicycles for a more leisurely way to explore the area.
Interestingly, Unzen was once popular with foreigners during the Meiji era as a retreat spot. I am told that many foreign visitors were drawn to this area due to a feeling of nostalgia they sensed when they looked at the mountains, which were once covered with grasslands (now cedar), which reminded them of home.
Today, there are still a number of small-scale luxury ryokan. The current kinds of accommodation on offer are smaller than the huge ones that used to be here, once designed to accommodate many visitors.
Near Unzen Jigoku’s entrance, I knelt down and placed my hand on the ground, feeling the warmth of the magma beneath the earth's surface. The tourism staff also pointed to the pipes, where water is channeled through and used to heat the hot water for the hotels, creating a sustainable and eco-friendly source of power.
I followed the pathways through the green canopy walkways to reach the fumarole where steam was rising from the earth. It feels like an endless, ever-changing landscape. One jigoku is nicknamed the “sparrow jigoku” because the sounds resemble birds chirping. In fact, this location is a well-known spot among birdwatchers. Many people also visit during fall to enjoy the beautiful hues of natural colors, such as green, orange, and red. This is quite different from Kyoto, for example, where the predominant color of autumn is red.
You can also purchase hot spring steamed eggs and take a walk around the neighborhood, where you will see cats napping here and there. After that, we had a nice lunch at a local restaurant where I tried the famous champon noodle dish, renowned throughout the prefecture. This version, however, is seafood-based, lighter, and refreshing, which was a delicious and relaxing coda to my time in this particular part of Japan.
