Visit Kyushu
The Official Kyushu Travel Guide

Day 1 Buddha faces carved into volcanic rock

I begin my spiritual journey through Kyushu’s volcanic landscape one step at a time, ascending a demonic staircase made of natural, uncut stones. This region is known for its many ancient giant Buddha statues carved into rock, known as magaibutsu.

I now stand before a finely carved Dainichi Nyorai, the supreme deity of Esoteric Buddhism in Japan, and at the gently frowning 8-meter-high Fudo Myo-o, one of the largest Buddhist statues in Japan from the Heian and Kamakura periods. I can only imagine the statue's original appearance, representing Fudo Myo-o’s typically ferocious “immovable” character and fanged growl, which the centuries have softened into a more gentle frown. The dark gray, porous cliffside upholding these forms is a conglomerate of hard bedrock and volcanic tuff accumulated over eons.

The National Treasure of Fuki-ji Temple

A scenic drive further into the mountains leads me to Fuki-ji Temple, a historical site that was established in the Heian period as a clan temple of the Grand Shrine of Usa Jingu. And yet, this ancient sacred site is surprisingly modest. Who would have guessed that it is the oldest existing wooden structure in Kyushu, a designated National Treasure, and one of the three most important Amida halls in Japan?

Right next door, the stylishly traditional Japanese inn Ryoan Fukinotou was started by a local resident who originally served her own vegetarian cooking at Fuki-ji. Both dinner and breakfast are flawlessly presented with an emphasis on the local ingredients of Oita’s fertile Kunisaki Peninsula. The chef, a young monk who is one of the primary caretakers of the temple, is also the instructor of the on-site Zazen experience.

Photo credit: Todd Fong

Day 2 Hiking the Kunisaki Long Trail K-1

The next morning, inside the Fuki-ji temple hall, we learn the core practice of Tendai Zazen meditation, which is to become aware of your existence by counting your breaths without manipulating the pace. The breathing brings you to a relaxed state; the counting keeps you focused. This is done in the dark stillness of the temple, facing the Amida Nyorai, which is bathed in a golden aura by a sliver of sunlight. Behind the Amida Nyorai is an ancient mural representing the Pure Land of the Tendai sect upon which the syncretic religion of Rokugo Manzan was founded.

Photo credit: Todd Fong

Feeling refreshed from our short meditation, I am ready to set out into the forest on a more vigorous trek. The Kunisaki Long Trail K-1 stretches about 11 km through the heart of the Kunisaki Peninsula, traversing four peaks.

Photo credit: Todd Fong

In the 8th century, Usa Jingu’s acceptance of Buddhism helped foster a syncretic relationship between Shinto and Buddhism, from which new temples were established. Six villages (rokugo) were developed around the peninsula, connected by physically demanding trails where the monks could practice ascetic training. These connected trails evolved into the Rokugo Manzan Mineirigyo pilgrimage, on which the Long Trail is based.

Photo credit: Todd Fong

The climbs are rigorous but not exhausting, and the shade of the forest and ocean breeze are enough to refresh us on several short breaks as we climb up rugged peaks and down into valleys. We follow the rough trail leading to Itsutsuji Fudo, which was said to be a secret training facility for monks made from a building carved into the rock face. The east-facing house offers incredible sunrise views and, on a clear day, glimpses of both Honshu and Shikoku islands across the Seto Inland Sea.

Tonight, I drive southward along the Kunisaki Peninsula to Beppu Onsen, known for its thousands of hot springs flowing at a gushing rate of 102,671 liters per minute.

Day 3 Kannawa’s steaming hot spring culture and cuisine

Among Beppu’s eight volcanic hot spring towns, Kannawa Onsen is especially famous for its extreme hot spring pools, hellishly steaming streets and nostalgic Showa-era atmosphere.

As I wander along the main street from Ideyuzaka to Miyukizaka and explore the playful maze of narrow alleys stone steps around it, I smile at carefree cats lounging on the naturally heated sidewalks, snack on a salty steamed onsen egg, and spot figures of the Kamakura-period monk Ippen Shonin, who is said to have discovered this exceptional location of geothermal healing. When it’s time for a break, I sit down with a coffee to admire the traditional architecture of Fujiya Gallery Ichiya Momo, a Meiji-era inn that was renovated into a café and craft shop.

My stomach growls at the sight and smells of Jigoku Mushi (Hell steaming), where anyone can be a sidewalk chef. First, I fill a basket of diverse raw ingredients on offer, including fresh mushrooms and vegetables from the Kuju mountains and seafood from the Bungo Channel and the Setouchi Inland Sea. Then, equipped with an apron, big gloves and a pair of tongs, I joyfully cook my dinner on grills using the natural geothermal steam rising from the earth under my feet. Once I’ve eaten my fill, it’s time for onsen-hopping through the many different hot spring waters of Beppu!

The Beppu Jigoku Meguri (Hell Tour) takes me around Kannawa’s bubbling geopark, featuring more extreme expressions of its boiling underworld. Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell)’s mesmerizingly bright turquoise color is the result of dissolved iron sulfate in the water. Nearby, Oniishibozu Jigoku (Devil Stone Monk Hell) gurgles softly around hypnotic swirls of milky gray clay. Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell)’s deep red color is due to spontaneously reacting hot mud containing iron oxide and magnesium oxide. Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell)’s volcanic fumarole swelters at 150°C underground, erupting at short regular intervals into a steaming 105°C geyser gushing up to 30 meters in the air.

Takachiho geology, mythology and ritual dances

I continue driving southwest to Takachiho Gorge, a 7-kilometer-long stretch of rocky cliffs ranging from 80 to 100 meters high. Down in the valley, the dramatic landscape consists of towering basalt columns formed by ancient
pyroclastic flows from the eruption of Mount Aso that have been eroded by the Gokase River over millennia.

From one vantage point, I gaze up at the rocky cliffside as I row a boat through the narrow gorge and underneath a stone bridge, before pausing in awe of the 17-meter-high Manai-no-taki, one of Japan’s top 100 waterfalls. By mid-morning, soft sunlight streaks into the gorge, illuminating this canyon wonderland with a golden glow. The plunging views from the promenade and footbridges above offer a macro perspective of this geological phenomenon, where the spectacular scenery seems to change constantly according to the time of day.

Speaking of the sun, I drive further up the mountain to visit Amano Iwato Shrine, which is dedicated to Amaterasu, the Shinto sun goddess. According to the legend, she was so enraged by her brother’s irresponsible behavior that she hid in a cave and refused to come out, thus depriving the world of her light. A short walk away from the shrine, the Amano Yasukawara cave is where Yaoyorozu no kami (all the deities) met to discuss their successful strategy to lure Amaterasu out of hiding: tease her curiosity with a joyous performance of what is now known as Kagura.

After nightfall, I head to Takachiho Shrine to catch a special performance of Takachiho Kagura: a lively traditional performing art to express gratitude for the autumn harvest and pray for future prosperity. The Kagura dances represent the leading four dances of Takachiho-no-Yokagura, dedicated to the local guardian deity Ujigami-sama, based on Amano Iwato mythology. I marvel over this evening cultural spectacle of dramatic masks, bright costumes, traditional taiko drums and melodic bamboo flutes, which paints a rich and enduring portrait of this legendary area.

Day 4 e-Biking the vast grasslands of the Aso Caldera

Finally, I drive to the volcanic heart of Kyushu: the Aso Caldera. Formed by a volcanic eruption between 270,000 and 90,000 years ago, this huge crater, measuring 18 kilometers from west to east and 25 kilometers from north to south, is one of the largest calderas in the world. The Aso Caldera is also home to some 40,000 people who live within the world’s only stable settlement within a caldera, which even includes a main road and railroad.

In fact, humans have lived in harmony with the Aso volcano since ancient times. As rainfall filters through the volcanic strata over several decades, high-altitude forests and grasslands store mineral-rich spring water, which can be used for both drinking and irrigating farmland. Farmers use the grasslands created by nutrient-poor earth mixed with volcanic ash for grazing horses and cattle, enriching the soil with their manure. Today, the sprawling verdant grasslands, known as bokuya in Japanese, extend over an area of about 22,000 hectares.

They have long been protected and maintained through a meticulous cycle of controlled burns to stop forest overgrowth, cattle grazing to renew the soil, and grass harvesting for thatched roofs and other crafts.

The bokuya is normally off-limits to the general public, but due to changes in farming styles and a lack of successors to maintain the grasslands, several organizations have taken the initiative to offer guided tours introducing visitors to Aso’s bokuya culture and heritage. And what could be more fun than immersing yourself in this volcanic landscape on electric mountain bikes? As soon as I see the rolling carpets of vibrant summer grass stretching out in all directions, I can’t wait to jump on an e-bike and ride off-road into the horizon. Of course, I first confide my trust (and my safety) in our dedicated bokuya guide – a former captain of a firefighting mountain rescue team who is driven by his desire to contribute to the conservation and sustainable use of the local landscape.

At last, I cycle across the rejuvenated grasslands on a thrilling ride of rolling hills and diverse terrain, which the mountain e-bike handles with ease and grace. Along the way, we spot wild boar holes, deer bones, rare plants, and other native wildlife that is lucky to inhabit this lovingly protected landscape of the Aso Caldera.